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Author Topic: how I shoot small fishes…  (Read 3169 times)
hwchoy
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« on: May 16, 2007, 03:09:04 PM »

I have benefited from some very generous people who initiated me into this rather esoteric photography niche. specifically it is about photography of small fishes, ranging from a few inches to less than 1 cm. There are tips and advices out there for general aquarium and fish photography, but do note that most of them refers to fishes of significant size, anything from 5-6 inches and larger.

The techniques used for set up, shooting, lighting, equipment, etc for these two classes of fishes are very different. Here I will present the techniques I use to capture close-up photographs of fishes, generally less than two inches in size.



well, the "secret" is really in providing enough light. and lots of patience and practice. as long as you have a camera that is capable of manual control, particularly manual focus, and the ability to control an external flash, you're bascially in business.

I was previously using a Canon G5, a compact digicam which has full manual control and a flash hotshoe. I added an adaptor which allows me to screw on various close-up filters (essentially glorified magnifying glass) of +1 to +9 diopters. On this set up I took around 55,000 shots.

Earlier last year I have upgraded to a Canon digital SLR. The reason to stay with Canon was to preserve my investments in all the flash lights and paraphenalia. The reason for the upgrade was to get better picture quality. Many people are of the opinion that digicam can produce just as good picture quality as a DSLR. In truth, only at web-sizes can they be comparable. When you blow up or view the picture at larger size, the picture quality of a DSLR and a good macro lens is incomparable.

Part of my project of shooting freshwater fishes is to be able to identify their species visually, as a photo documentation, and hence I wanted the best possible image quality.

I have three shooting set ups, one is a 6-inch betta barrack. this is just plain gravel for fishes 2-inches and below. second is a 1ft cube planted at the back half, so as to encourage the fishes to swim in the open area at the front. The third is my regular 3ft tank which houses the larger specimens.

In all cases, I uses one or two Canon SpeedLite 550EX wireless capable flash, commanded by a wireless trigger (ST-E2). You can see this wireless trigger mounted on the camera body in the picture. The advantage of a wireless trigger is that you can command ANY number of wireless capable SpeedLite, and you also don't have the danger of toppling it with an offshoe cord. In all cases, the camera's flash metering continues to work so you can shoot in full manual or aperture priority modes.

Let's see some pix…

my original Canon G5 set up, mounted with ST-E2 wireless trigger, and adaptor for close-up filters.


Canon 20D DLSR, mounted with ST-E2 wireless trigger, and EF 100mm ƒ/2.8 Macro USM lens.


three different ways to position the flash, depending on the fish characteristics, whether shiny, etc.




using two flashes even in a very small tank, helps to reduce harshness and remove hard shadows.

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Michael
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« Reply #1 on: May 16, 2007, 03:16:03 PM »

excellent idea. machiam the fish is a product. hehe
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hwchoy
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« Reply #2 on: May 16, 2007, 03:21:31 PM »

shots are always done handheld, manual focus, and I usually prefer Av mode with aperture set to ƒ/11 to ƒ/16. I very rarely go beyond ƒ/16 to avoid diffraction softness, which is significant at this level of magnification and details. In this mode, the ETTL-II flash metering provides good exposure control, MOST OF THE TIME.

Some times you need to switch to manual when the fish is excessively shiny, or the background is too black. Another trick is to still use Av mode but lock the exposure by aiming at an "appropriate place" such as along the mid-line where gravel meets black background (see last pix).

finally, other than bottom dwelling fish, they almost never stop in mid water and pose for you. here's why flash and the 1/250s shutter speed is so important.

Always shoot straight into the glass, at this magnification you can see easily the distortion caused by the glass. Also do shoot in RAW and custom WB, there are lots of green and yellow stuff in the tank that will mess up your white balance.

Once everything is set up, I will frame the subject to determine the magnification level and how far I should sit away from the tank. this is determined by the size of the fish. Once ready, you track the fish through the viewfinder, with practice you will be able to tell when the fish is in focus. Do not be afraid to shoot the moment you think it is in the right pose, you usually only have less than a second or two to take the shot, much less than the six seconds SAF lets you aim at figure 11 and 12s. Wink

On average I shoot as many as I think is necessary, and view them on the computer before picking out the ones that pass master. Do not be afraid to dump them all and reshoot. I use to have 2-3% hit rate when using the G5, this improved to 5-10% after thousands of shots. With a DSLR you can do much better and I usually make 20-30% hit rate now, even with the higher standards I now apply.

So the most important tip: PAP, Patience and Practice.

enjoy your shoot Smiley
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UKay
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« Reply #3 on: May 16, 2007, 04:02:59 PM »

very imformative... thanks uncle choy!!! Grin
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Whatever turns you on... Grin
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jediforce4ever
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« Reply #4 on: May 16, 2007, 07:27:01 PM »

wow!!its an article already!!
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kel
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« Reply #5 on: May 16, 2007, 09:46:54 PM »

very details....
thanks for sharing with the rest....
really learn alot from u... Wink
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Canew
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« Reply #6 on: May 16, 2007, 10:21:37 PM »

Thanks for teaching us, Choy.  Smiley
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hwchoy
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« Reply #7 on: May 16, 2007, 10:23:37 PM »

don't say teach, I just pass on what other have taught me Cheesy
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Canew
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« Reply #8 on: May 16, 2007, 10:24:26 PM »

OK. Thanks for passing us the information.
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rickygck
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« Reply #9 on: May 17, 2007, 03:16:16 PM »

Very interesting, thanks for sharing.
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hwchoy
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« Reply #10 on: May 17, 2007, 03:26:44 PM »

I should add that sample outputs are posted in Nature section prefixed by "Fish - "
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jediforce4ever
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« Reply #11 on: May 17, 2007, 08:36:28 PM »

One question; how do you determine the flash power output?
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hwchoy
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« Reply #12 on: May 18, 2007, 03:32:22 AM »

One question; how do you determine the flash power output?

ETTL-II with compensation. You do not want to discharge at max flash power, in fact the least that will do the job is prefered. This is because reflectance off of suspended particles in the water, as well as reflect from surface of scales, and in some cases subsurface of scales, can drastically alter the look of the fish.
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Redsun81
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« Reply #13 on: May 30, 2007, 02:18:44 PM »

This is a very good article indeed!
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sumball
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« Reply #14 on: May 31, 2007, 05:08:20 PM »

Great stuff!
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